Intro to skincare

This past January I decided to follow in the footsteps of my younger sister and enrolled as an esthiology student at the Aveda Institute in Des Moines. I have been considering more education over the last few years, but not at a 4 year institution. I have been looking for a trade as it seems there is always a need for those with technical skills. I looked into dental assistants, radiation techs, and even applied for culinary school. I then realized that I would have to eventually de-bone a chicken and decided against it. After watching my sister go through the esthiology program I thought that could be something for me. Now six months later I am done and ready to hit the ground running! While I am on the search for a job I figured I would take the opportunity to start sharing some insight with all of you!
Within the first couple of days of school we had talked about all of the opportunities available to us as estheticians. The book has an entire section dedicated to those who may also posses a journalism background. At that very moment I declared that I would be the Carrie Bradshaw of skincare. So here I go....

As anyone who knew me in high school knows, I had some pretty bad acne. Not until recently did I learn how to really care for my skin. My sister was working at Estee Lauder and got me on a good skin care regimen. This was the first time in my life that I was properly caring for my skin. Yes, I had used the Proactive skincare system, but knowing what I know now I would not consider that proper skincare. Within a week of using the Estee Lauder products my face was changing dramatically. I was hooked. I currently use at least six products every time I cleanse my face, but also incorporate other products in my routine throughout the week. I am using my Estee Lauder line right now, but I am in the market to switch things up a bit. Just like our hair, our faces can get used to the products we are using and it it good to change every once in awhile. I don't recommend changing often as it can take about four weeks for our skin to get used to a new product line.

I am going to take you through each step of the cleansing process and explain the benefits and just how important each step is to your skin. I will also share with you my favorite products.

Pre-cleanse:
It is very important to remove your make up before cleansing the skin. You need an agent to break up the dirt and impurities on your skin so that your cleanser can then really do its job and pull everything off the skin. If you don't pre-cleanse you will still have makeup on your face after you cleanse. You can use makeup remover towelettes or oils. Aveda has four different composition oils that can be used to remove makeup. Each is for a specific skin type, but the Beautifying oil is my favorite. It also has many, many other uses that we will touch on another day. Another great oil remover is from Boscia. It is the Makeup-Breakup Cool Cleansing Oil. Estee Lauder has Take It Away in both towelettes and a gel. And if you are looking for a bargain, you can always go to your local big box store and get some towelettes. I'll let the bargain slide in this case, but make sure you invest in some good products the rest of the way through!

Cleanse:
This is where things can get a little tricky. Everyone needs to find a cleanser that functions with their skin type (which will be covered in the next post). If you do not have oily or acneic skin then you should not be using a gel-based cleanser. Also, read the label. It is important to know what you are putting on your skin. Do not use products with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. These will only make you dry and flaky. Watch for them in every product you buy. They find a way to sneak into a lot of products. Instead of the gel cleanser look for a cream-based cleanser.
If you do have acneic skin I highly recommend the Outer Peace line from Aveda. I have seen very dramatic results with the line. It does have salicylic acid in every product, but it is naturally derived from wintergreen - pulling the same punch while being more gentle than a chemically derived salicylic acid that we are used to.
If you have sensitive skin you may have been told to just stick with Cetaphil. I promise we can find a more effective product that won't irritate your skin!

Toning:
I have had many people tell me that they think its a waste of money to buy toner because it doesn't do anything. This is not true at all. Toners offer a range of benefits. First of all, the toner is going to remove any excess product left on the skin from the cleansing process. Toners are hydrating. Some offer a little exfoliation. Generally, the main purpose of the toner is to balance the pH of the skin.

Serums:
Serums are generally the treatment product in a line. They are a lighter formula than a moisturizer and should be put on the face first. The general rule is lighter products on the face before the heavier. The molecular makeup of serums is generally smaller and won't be absorbed into the skin if they are put on following the larger molecular makeup of moisturizers. The serum you choose is going to target your main skin concern. There are serums for EVERYTHING. Fine lines and wrinkles, smaller pores, skin tone, acne, age spots, etc.

Eye Cream:
We aren't getting any younger! I use an eye cream morning and night. The skin around your eyes is extremely thin and will age in a heartbeat - especially for those of you tanners out there. When applying eye cream use your ring fingers and gently pat the cream around the orbital bone. Don't ever just rub the eye cream all over. It is important not to stretch the skin around the eye and never apply directly to the eye lid. Because the skin is so thin around the eye it will pull in any moisture that it needs. Green Science Firming Eye Creme from Aveda is amazing. It will target the fine lines and wrinkles, but it also has buckwheat wax that will target any darkness under the eyes.

Moisturizer:
Every single person needs to moisturize, moisturize, moisturize! If you don't moisturize because you think you have oily skin then you are only hurting yourself. Your skin needs moisture and hydration in order to maintain a healthy look. If the skin isn't getting the moisture it needs the sebaceous glands (oil producing glands) start to overcompensate for the lack of moisture. Essentially, your skin is telling you it needs moisture. If you don't currently use a moisturizer, I challenge you to give it a try and see how your skin reacts. You may not need those oil blotting strips anymore!
While you are moisturizing your face you should also be protecting it. Try to find a moisturizer that has an SPF of at least 15. SPF regulations are currently undergoing an overhaul and a new system will be coming soon. Some products may have SPF in them, but may not be clearly marked on the front of the packaging. Read your labels!
I could talk about moisturizers for days. You really need to just find what works best for you. Some cremes may feel to heavy for you, especially during the summer. You may opt for a heavier creme during the winter months and something lighter in the summer. Adjust your products to the way your skin reacts or feels.

Exfoliating:
It is extremely important to exfoliate your face several times a week. Exfoliation is going to help slough off the top layer of dead skin cells. The cells can clog pores and follicles and lead to break outs. It is best to exfoliate at night because this is when cell turnover is highest. The exfoliation will help speed up the process.
You do need to be careful with exfoliating. Do not over exfoliate. This can cause skin damage. Limit yourself to about 3 times a week. Also, look for a soft beaded exfoliant or a biochemical exfoliant. Stay away from the Apricot Scrub and anything else gritty like that. Those can really tear up your skin. Estee Lauder has a great gentle exfoliant called So Polished. Aveda has a biochemical exfoliator called Exfoliant in the Botanical Kinetics line. This can simply be dabbed on with a cotton ball or pad. It will chemically break up the dead skin cells. If you want to use a beaded exfoliant look for something with Jojoba beads.

Alrighty! There is your brief introduction to skin care! If you have any questions just ask away and I will get you an answer. Share any of your favorite products - I'd love to hear about them. I am on a mission to learn about as many products as I possibly can.